feat(ais): surface upstream outage instead of failing silently

On 2026-05-23, stream.aisstream.io went fully offline (TCP timeouts on port
443). The backend kept respawning the node WebSocket proxy every few
seconds with nothing arriving. From the operator's POV the ships layer
silently went empty — no banner, no log surfacing, no way to tell whether
it was their config / network / viewport filter / upstream.

Backend:
* ais_proxy_status() now also returns:
  - connected (bool): true when a vessel message arrived in last 60s
  - last_msg_age_seconds (int | None)
  - proxy_spawn_count (int): proxy respawns — sustained growth without
    connected means upstream is dead
* /api/health escalates top status to "degraded" when AIS_API_KEY is set
  but the proxy is currently disconnected. Existing degraded_tls signal
  preserved.

Frontend:
* useAisUpstreamHealth hook polls /api/health every 30s, derives the
  outage state. Defensively only reports outage once spawn_count > 0 so
  operators who haven't opted in don't see the banner.
* AisUpstreamBanner component renders a dismissible amber notice
  "Ship data temporarily unavailable — AISStream upstream is offline"
  mounted on the main app shell.

7 backend tests pin the status-shape contract and the /api/health
escalation behavior in both with-key and without-key configurations.

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 4.7 <noreply@anthropic.com>

backend/services/ais_stream.py

@@ -350,19 +350,58 @@ _proxy_process = None
 # path during an upstream cert outage. Surfaced via ais_proxy_status() for
 # /api/health.
 _proxy_status: dict = {}
+# Upstream-connectivity telemetry (added when stream.aisstream.io went fully
+# offline on 2026-05-23). ``_last_msg_at`` is the unix timestamp of the most
+# recent vessel message received from the proxy. ``_proxy_spawn_count`` is
+# how many times we've started the node proxy; combined with no recent
+# messages it tells us the proxy is respawning in a tight loop because the
+# upstream is unreachable. Surfaced via ais_proxy_status() so the operator
+# can see "AIS is dead" instead of guessing whether it's their map filter,
+# their api key, or upstream.
+_last_msg_at: float = 0.0
+_proxy_spawn_count: int = 0
 _VESSEL_TRAIL_INTERVAL_S = 120
 _VESSEL_TRAIL_MAX_POINTS = 240
 
 
-def ais_proxy_status() -> dict:
-    """Return a copy of the latest ais_proxy.js status (issue #258).
+# How stale "last vessel message" can be before we consider the stream
+# disconnected. AISStream typically pushes multiple messages/sec, so a 60s
+# gap means something's wrong upstream or in transit.
+_AIS_CONNECTED_FRESHNESS_S = 60
 
-    Currently surfaces ``degraded_tls`` (bool) which is true when the
-    proxy is using SPKI-pinned fallback because AISStream's cert expired.
-    Returns an empty dict when no status has been received yet.
+
+def ais_proxy_status() -> dict:
+    """Return a copy of the latest ais_proxy.js status + connectivity health.
+
+    Fields:
+      * ``degraded_tls`` (bool, issue #258) — true when the proxy is using
+        SPKI-pinned fallback because AISStream's cert expired.
+      * ``connected`` (bool) — true when we received a vessel message in
+        the last ``_AIS_CONNECTED_FRESHNESS_S`` seconds.
+      * ``last_msg_age_seconds`` (int | None) — seconds since the last
+        vessel message; None if we've never received one.
+      * ``proxy_spawn_count`` (int) — how many times we've spawned the
+        node proxy. Sustained increases here without ``connected`` means
+        we're respawning in a tight loop because upstream is dead.
+
+    Returns an empty dict when called before the AIS subsystem starts
+    (e.g. during tests or when no API key is set).
     """
     with _vessels_lock:
-        return dict(_proxy_status)
+        status = dict(_proxy_status)
+        last = _last_msg_at
+        spawns = _proxy_spawn_count
+
+    now = time.time()
+    if last > 0:
+        last_age = int(now - last)
+        status["last_msg_age_seconds"] = last_age
+        status["connected"] = last_age <= _AIS_CONNECTED_FRESHNESS_S
+    else:
+        status["last_msg_age_seconds"] = None
+        status["connected"] = False
+    status["proxy_spawn_count"] = spawns
+    return status
 
 import os
 
@@ -588,8 +627,10 @@ def _ais_stream_loop():
                 env=proxy_env,
                 **popen_kwargs,
             )
+            global _proxy_spawn_count
             with _vessels_lock:
                 _proxy_process = process
+                _proxy_spawn_count += 1
 
             # Drain stderr in a background thread to prevent deadlock
             import threading
@@ -645,9 +686,15 @@ def _ais_stream_loop():
                 if not mmsi:
                     continue
 
+                # Telemetry: stamp the timestamp of the most recent real
+                # vessel message. ais_proxy_status() reads this to decide
+                # whether the stream is currently "connected" — i.e. has
+                # any data flowed in the last 60s.
+                global _last_msg_at
                 with _vessels_lock:
+                    _last_msg_at = time.time()
                     if mmsi not in _vessels:
-                        _vessels[mmsi] = {"_updated": time.time()}
+                        _vessels[mmsi] = {"_updated": _last_msg_at}
                     vessel = _vessels[mmsi]
 
                 # Update position from PositionReport or StandardClassBPositionReport